Journaling The Journey

Hiking in the Bay of Kotor

The view of Kotor Bay from the Old Fort Trail

Arriving in the Bay of Kotor was like landing in a picture perfect adventure wonderland. Surrounded by jutting mountains precariously peering over cobalt glassy water, peppered with medieval churches and fortresses and cobblestone trails I didn’t know whether to grab a mountain bike, my running shoes, kayak or climbing equipment (there is a stunning Via Ferrata right above Kotor)!  Hiking in the Bay of Kotor proved to be my favorite. 

Top of the Old Kotor Fort Trail 

This trail has many names. Googlemaps calls it the Top of the Old Kotor Fort Trail. Some call it the Ladder of Kotor and I have seen it even called the Serpentine. Whatever you call it, this is a fabulous medieval trail.  At first it offers stunning views of the city of Kotor.  But as you start hiking higher and higher it rewards you with fantastic views of the Bay of Kotor.

Switchback overlooking the Bay of Kotor.
Old Fortress Trail – switchbacks above the Bay of Kotor

Climbing switchback after switchback I passed fragrant pomegranate, fig and olive trees, multitudes of rainbow colored wildflowers, long haired goats with huge horns, singing birds, butterflies and bees! After running 72 switchbacks I reached the top of the Old Fortress walls.  My reward was a  jaw dropping view of serene and oh so magical Kotor Bay!

Forest Trail above Kotor

Although my Google Fi plan decided to stop working during this trip into Montenegro (and I was running alone), I could not help but continue up the trail as it changed to a beautiful verdant forest.

Trail Options at the Top of the Old Kotor Fort Trail

There are so many hiking trail options at the top of the Old Kotor Fort Trail above the Bay of Kotor. Some of the trails lead into Lovcen National Park, which is definitely worth a visit. Prior to attempting these trails, please keep in mind to bring water – the steepness and heat combined can be taxing.

Sveti Ivan Fortress 

Sveti Ivan Fortress

Starting at the Skudra River (the same start as for the Old Kotor Fort Trail/Ladder of Kotor) you climb up the trail built by Austrians who also built many of Montenegro’s roads. The road connected Kotor and Montenegro’s royal capital, Cetinje, and was used by families bringing their produce to sell at the market in Kotor.

Trail split – up to the Ladder of Kotor and right to the Sveti Ivan Fortress

About 15 – 20 minutes up the trail you will see a house with signs for drinks, cheeses, etc.,  At this point the trail continues up (and to the left) for the Ladder of Kotor.  To the right (or straight ahead) for the Sveti Ivan Fortress. 

Continuing 3 minutes down the trail towards the Fortress, it opens onto an abandoned church and a beautiful field of flowers and ruins of the fortress. From there the trail is well marked showing you a way to an opening in the Fortress to climb through.  This path is perfectly legal and takes you to the steps of the Fortress.  Which saves you 8 Euro each – and yes it is a legal trail.

Sveti Ivan Fortress

Poor Rob was suffering from the blooming landscape.  So we tried to cool off at the top of the Fortress and learn a bit more about it. The fortress itself is only one part of the intricate fortification system that dates back to medieval times.  Starting in the 15th century when the then independent nation succumbed to Venetian rule this fortress got quite a few additions.

The stone walls lace the mountainside along with remnants of towers and other defense strongholds.  These once provided protection for the city and its residents. Today, the Fortress is in quite a state of disrepair, but lovely to climb through. The breathtaking views of the Bay of Kotor and the city itself are well worth the hiking sweat.

Sveti Ivan Fortress Steps

The way down was quite simple.  We simply followed the steps into the Old Town of Kotor.

Kotor Bay

The hiking trails of Kotor Bay are not to be missed! We will definitely be back with mountain bikes.  If you enjoyed reading about hiking in the Bay of Kotor check out our hike in Chiang Mai.

Have you done any of the Bay of Kotor trails? Let us know which you liked best.

Please follow and like us:


  1. I’d love to do this trail myself. At one time, Atila the great held an area that reached from the Baltic Sea to the Aegean and Adriatic Seas. I wonder if he stayed in the Kotor area.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.