After spending a few fun days in Ayutthaya (the second ancient capital of Thailand) we decided to continue north to visit the first one. So much is written about this ancient city, especially since it was the first capital of the Kingdom of Siam (Thailand) during the 13th and 14th centuries.
Some say that it reminds them of Angkor Wat while others question – is Sukhothai worth visiting? We decided to check the place out for ourselves and report back to you.
In this post we share how many days in Sukhothai are the perfect amount, where to stay, how to get to Sukhothai and the top places to visit. And ultimately answer the question – Is Sukhothai worth visiting?!
How Many Days in Sukhothai
Once we arrived in Old Sukhothai we immediately fell in love with the vibe of the town. It is super laid back with quiet streets and tons of greenery and flowers. I kept on saying to Rob, we are only here for 3 nights?! Why aren’t we staying longer?
The ancient town is a large square with most of the interesting sights within it. Then there are a few more corners of interest outside the west and north sides of the square.
Technically you can see everything in Old Sukhothai proper in 2 full days. Therefore we highly recommend that you stay for at least 3 nights. The hotels are lovely and generally inexpensive, the food is tasty and there are many options for great massages. Why not stay for a bit?!
Now, if you want to visit some of the nearby villages, then we recommend adding at least another day.
Map of Sukhothai To Do List
Here is an interactive map to help you see where everything on our Sukhothai to do list is located including the best places to eat and where to stay in Sukhothai.
Top Sukhothai To Do List
Sukhothai Historical Park
For us, visiting the Sukhothai Historical Park was our first priority. Our hotel (and most others) rent bicycles for 50 Bhat (about $1.45) per day. We grabbed a bike and peddled over to the historical park. The cost to enter is broken down into 3 parts each costing 100 Bhat per day (about $2.90 USD). There is the central zone, the northern zone and the western zone.
In front of each of the Wat structures there is QR code on the name plate where you can see how the Temple actually looked in it’s prime. The website is a bit wonky, but you do get a much better understanding of what the place used to look like.
Central Zone
The central zone has the most famous temples and it is best to visit them early in the morning for the best light, however the sunset golden hour can be magical as well. Here were our favorite temples to see:
Wat Mahathat
This is the most important Temple in Sukhothai Historical Park. It was founded in 1292 by the first king of the Sukhothai empire and sits in the middle of the central zone. Everywhere you look there are Buddhas. Some are huge standing ones measuring 9 meters tall (30 feet) and others are seated in a lotus position.
The main Stupa is in the shape of a lotus bud and has 168 stuccoed Buddhas on it. We were very lucky to be the only people visiting these Temple grounds (except for a few dogs). The temperature was rising and so we just sat under a large tree and marveled at the peaceful beauty of this Temple.
Wat Sa Si
Another important Temple in Sukhothai is Wat Sa Si which is located on a small island in the middle of the lake of the central zone of the historical park. It has various beautiful Buddhas and Stupas on the island. We enjoyed taking pictures of the standing Buddhas with the seated ones in the background during sunset.
Wat Si Sawai
Wat Si Sawai is considered one of the oldest shrines in the region and dates back to the late 12th or early 13th century. Visually it looks quite different from the other temples. Originally this wat was a Hindu shrine created in the Khmer style (think Angkor Wat) and has 3 prangs which represent the Hindu trinity.
During the 14th century the shrine was converted to Buddhism, however, the ornate Hindu carvings on the prangs remained. You can walk into the lower part of the prangs, although they currently have bats and birds living in them.
Wat Tra Phang Ngoen
Wat Tra Phang Ngoen is located right behind Wat Mahathat on a small island with a lagoon around it. As we walked across the wooden bridge we saw the large seated Buddha and many tall pillars which are the ruins of the ordination hall that this once was.
If you want to take a break from the heat, this area has some trees which provide some much needed shade.
North Zone
The northern zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park is much smaller than the central one. There really are only 2 structures to look at, yet the cost for this area is still 100 Baht per person.
Wat Si Chum
Wat Si Chum is the main reason to come to the northern zone of the Sukhothai Historical Park. This Temple is located just outside the main moated old city. The overall temple, which was constructed in the late 14th century is rather small, but it contains a massive 15-meter tall (50 ft) sitting Buddha statue, which is made up of brick and covered with white stucco.
An interesting aspect of the temple is the huge right hand of the Buddha, with it’s fingers reaching down towards the bottom of the pedestal, as if it is reaching down towards it’s visitors.
Early morning is the best time to visit Wat Si Chum as the Buddha faces the east and catches the light beautifully in the morning.
Wat Phra Pai Luang
Wat Phra Pai Luang was built between the late 11th to early 12th century. This structure has been partially restored including one of the 3 Khmer prongs which still has some intricate carvings. The other 2 prongs are piles of bricks. There are a few Buddhas – one standing and one sitting.
In my opinion, this was my least favorite Temple. However, it is on the way to Wat Si Chum, so worth a quick stop.
West Zone
The west zone is located about 4.5 km from Old Sukhothai and is pretty spread out. In addition most of the notable structures are located high up on a hill which need to be climbed on foot. Therefore, if exploring this area, make sure to bring enough water and a few snacks as there aren’t any shops along the way.
Rob and I cycled here from our hotel and found the route very enjoyable as there is very little traffic and the windy road is scenic and pleasant to ride.
This is the third zone that costs 100 Baht per person to enter.
Wat Saphan Hin
If you see one Temple in the west zone, we highly recommend Wat Saphan Hin. Located 300 meters (985 ft) above the road, there are many steps to take to get up to the 12 meter (40 ft) high Buddha. The view is spectacular and the Buddha is quite beautiful as well.
If you are able, make the trek up to Wat Saphan Hin at sunrise when the warm glow of the rising sun falls right on the Buddha.
Wat Mangkorn
If you are cycling the west zone, then make sure to stop at Wat Mangkorn. For us, the actual structure was not on the top of our Sukhothai to do list, but the way that a tree’s roots had encircled part of the ruins on this site, really showed off how powerful nature really is.
Temples Outside of Sukhothai Historical Park
There are a few temples outside of the park that are free to enter and worth the visit.
Wat Traphang Thong
Wat Traphang Thong is a picturesque temple, located on a small island encircled by a lake. We visited as the sun was setting. The wooden bridge creates a great place to take pictures. At that time there was a group of monks who were chanting inside the Temple, making the visit extra special.
This Temple does not have an entrance fee.
Wat Sorasak
This chedi is located near a small lake filled with lotus flowers and is just outside of the historical park. What is interesting about this chedi is that it’s base is encircled by elephants. They have been reconstructed with plaster, however the place is still quite beautiful and worth the visit.
There is no entrance fee for this chedi.
Ramkhamhaeng National Museum
This air conditioned 2 story museum has artifacts from Sukhothai dating back between 1238 to 1438. The main hall has the Walking Buddha, a 1st century old drum and a large collection of Buddhas ranging in sizes and materials.
There are also coins, pottery, weapons and a lot of Chinese porcelain from the Yuan, Ming and the Qing dynasties.
The entry fee is 150 Baht (about $4.50) per person.
Sukhothai Bicycle Tour
One of the things we can highly recommend for your Sukhothai to do list goes beyond the historical park! There is a lovely Thai family that runs a Sukhothai bicycle tours that are just fantastic. The countryside tour takes you through local villages and rice fields while Jib (the tour guide) explains life in rural Thailand.
This is one of the best things to experience in central Thailand!
How to Get to Sukhothai
Most travelers visit Sukhothai from Chiang Mai as there are only 266 km between the 2 cities, however there are many routes to get here.
How to Get to Sukhothai from Chiang Mai
- By Bus: Buses from Chiang Mai to Sukhothai take about 5-6 hours. This is a popular route for travelers exploring northern Thailand. Bus prices are approximately $9 USD per person one way and are quite lovely (we experienced this in the opposite direction). There are 3 stops, so that you can get out and stretch your legs for a few minutes. Book your tickets a few days in advance, as the buses do get booked up.
- Rideshare: Hiring a rideshare car offers flexibility and allows you to stop at scenic spots along the way. The drive takes around 4.5 hours and costs about $90 USD.
How to Get to Sukhothai from Ayutthaya
- By Bus: Direct buses from Ayutthaya to Sukhothai take roughly 6 hours. Bus prices are approximately $12 USD and can be booked through 12go.Asia
- By Minibus: Our guesthouse offered a shared minibus (about 12 people sharing) for $30 USD per person, taking about 5 hours to get there.
- By Train and Bus: A train runs from Ayutthaya to Phitsanulok, then you need to transfer to a bus or taxi to reach Sukhothai. The train takes 3-5 hours and the ride from Phitsanulok to Sukhothai another hour and 15 minutes. Overall the cost starts at $10 USD and is the least recommended option.
- Rideshare: The drive takes around 5 hours and costs start at about $90 USD. We did this in an electric car and it took about 7.5 hours as the car needed to be recharged and our Grab driver got lost. Regardless, it was a fun adventure and better for the environment than a gas guzzler.
How to get to Sukhothai from Bangkok
- By Bus: The most affordable way to travel is by bus from Bangkok’s Mo Chit Bus Terminal. The journey on the express bus takes about 7.5 hours, and buses run frequently throughout the day. Costs for the express bus start at $14 USD.
- By Plane: Sukhothai has a small airport, and Bangkok Airways operates daily flights from the BKK airport in Bangkok. The flight takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes. This is the quickest option. Costs start at $76 USD.
- By Train: While there is no direct train to Sukhothai, you can take a train to Phitsanulok (about 6 hours) and then a 1.25 hour bus or taxi to Sukhothai.
- Rideshare: The drive will take around 6 hours and the cost will start around $155 USD. You can either order your favorite rideshare or go through 12go.Asia
Where to Stay in Sukhothai
There are so many options for accommodation in Sukhothai! It was a bit overwhelming seeing all the possibilities with reasonable prices, which made Rob think – how can the place be any good if it is so cheap?! Yet the guesthouses are really lovely here – we visited a lot!
Budget: Smilingface Guesthouse is one of the most beloved guesthouses in the city. It offers a tent with a futon, starting at $14 USD for 2 people with breakfast.
Mid-Range: The hotel that we stayed in was Thai Thai Sukhothai and it was one of the nicest places in town. There was also a pool and a fabulous breakfast. The Wifi was decent and the hot water worked well in the shower. Prices start around $30 USD for 2 people with breakfast. You can even get an in room Thai massage for 290 Bhat (approximately $8.40 USD).
Luxury: Sukhothai Treasure Resort & Spa is considered the most luxurious of accommodations in Sukhothai. This resort has a well rated spa and restaurant. There is also a nice large pool set in the middle of the property. Prices start at around $67 USD per night for 2 people with breakfast.
Where to Eat in Sukhothai
There are a surprising amount of cafes and restaurants in Old Sukhothai that are dotted between the main road that leads to the Historical Park and the smaller roads that have most of the accommodations. Below are some of our favorites that we visited during our stay:
Phum Phor Coffee Restaurant serves great Thai food along with some European favorites. The restaurant is very pretty. It is set in a garden with indoor and outdoor seating. They also serve interesting cocktails. A full page of the menu is dedicated to vegetarian food of which a few items can be made vegan.
Prices are on the higher side compared to other cafes in the city as this is a more elegant restaurant.
Check In Eatery has a large menu of very reasonably priced Thai food. Try the Green Curry – it is quite good. Vegan and vegetarian items are available upon request. Smoothies are also on the menu.
Cafe Thammada is a nice place to grab a great coffee or tea. They also have juices.
Sukhothai Night Market is a favorite among backpackers to get delicious, clean and inexpensive food.
Is Sukhothai Worth Visiting?
Now, we promised to answer the originally asked question – is Sukhothai worth visiting? For us, the answer is a resounding YES.
Between the appeal of the old town, the beauty of the historical park and everything else on our Sukhothai to do list, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay. I think the charm of our hotel – Thai Thai Resort had a lot do with how much we enjoyed the stay overall. It just set the tone for our experience here.
If you are planning your visit and wondering how many days in Sukhothai are enough, we stayed for 3 nights and wished that we had stayed at least another day. I know that I would have definitely asked for another evening massage from our hotel’s in house masseuse – she was terrific!
Have you been to Sukhothai? What was your impression? Did we miss anything on our Sukhothai to do list? We would love to hear from you in the comments.